Hunting vintage is brilliant: sustainable, characterful, often better-made than new. The snag? The market’s awash with “made-yesterday” pieces dressed up as mid-century, farmhouse or Art Deco. You don’t need a loupe and white gloves to sort real from replica; just a calm eye and a few street-smart checks.
Start with the story
Authentic pieces usually come with believable provenance: where it lived, how it was used, a repair ticket under a seat, a delivery label on the back. Vague “house clearance” origins aren’t proof of a fake, but they’re your cue to look harder.
Do the touch test
Age is tactile. Old timber feels silky where hands have polished it over decades (drawer pulls, arm fronts, rails). Faux-distressing often has sanded edges but oddly perfect flat areas. Flip it: undersides and backs should show darker, oxidised wood — not bright, fluffy MDF or chipboard.
Open every drawer
Joinery tells the truth. Hand-cut dovetails are a little irregular, and drawer bottoms slide in grooves. Laser-perfect dovetails, stapled carcasses or thin veneer with repeating grain patterns point to later manufacture. Hardwood runners should show honest wear; full-extension metal sliders are modern.
Check fasteners and glue
Pre-1950s = slot-head screws. The mid-century brings Phillips/Pozi. Staple guns, Allen bolts and masses of hot glue are late. A “1930s” sideboard held with staples is wishful thinking.
Weigh it, then smell it
Solid timber has heft; hollow core feels wrong for its size. Finishes smell different: wax/oil/shellac have a mellow scent; fresh spray lacquer smells sharp and chemical. Horsehair and hessian in old seats have a dusty sweetness; polyurethane foam smells plasticky.
Read the finish, not the polish
Shellac and wax build a soft, uneven sheen and show subtle sun-fade and fine crazing. Polyurethane looks glassy and sits on top of the grain. Check hidden areas (drawer backs, undersides) for the true, unrefinished surface.
Lift the cushion (upholstery clues)
Older seats use coil springs tied with jute webbing, hair and cotton felt, fixed with tacks. Modern replicas lean on zig-zag springs, foam blocks and forests of staples. A “1950s” chair with shiny synthetic webbing is newer than claimed.
Hardware and design icons
Brass develops patina; it doesn’t chip like sprayed “brass”. Threads on old bolts are slightly rough; backplates look hand-punched. For famous designs (Eames, Jacobsen, Breuer), watch for wrong proportions, chunky cushions, cheap veneer and rough castings. Cross-check measurements against a museum or maker archive.
Labels, stamps and “ghosts”
Makers’ plaques, paper factory labels and retailer badges help — but many fall off. Look for “ghosts”: a clean rectangle where a badge once sat, two old nail holes. Brand-new foil stickers on raw ply are red flags.
Sense-check the price
Icons rarely sell for a fraction of market value. A too-good deal is likely a replica. Equally, don’t let a high sticker price blind you — let materials, construction and wear patterns decide.
Quick pocket checklist (for the shop floor)
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Undersides & backs: oxidised wood, old screws, believable dust — not bright MDF and staple forests.
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Drawers: slightly irregular dovetails, grooved bottoms, hardwood runners with wear.
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Hardware: aged brass/steel, era-correct screws/bolts — not sprayed gold.
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Finish: soft sheen and sun-fade in the right places — not sanded-on “wear”.
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Weight & smell: timber heft and wax/oil scent — not hollow core and chemical lacquer.
Authenticity is about coherence. When materials, construction, wear and story align, you’re probably holding the real thing. If they don’t, buy it as a look-alike you love — priced accordingly
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