What causes sallow skin and how to get your glow back

A complexion that looks flat, grey-yellow or a bit brown-grey is often described as sallow. It is not a diagnosis. It is a sign that skin renewal and microcirculation are not at their best. The good news is that daily habits and targeted care can lift dullness and restore radiance.

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What is sallow skin?

Sallowness is a change in tone and luminosity rather than one specific pigment problem. It shows up when cell turnover slows, tiny blood vessels deliver less oxygen and nutrients, and structural proteins like collagen are under strain. Sugar-linked damage called glycation also contributes, leaving skin less bouncy and more yellow in colour.

How it looks varies with skin tone. Fair and pink skins tend to look more yellow. Olive skins can look brown and flat. Very deep tones are less likely to look yellow yet can still look dull and ashy when turnover and hydration are low.

Why does it happen?

Ageing: Renewal naturally slows and collagen declines, so skin reflects less light.
UV and pollution: Both drive oxidative stress, collagen breakdown and uneven tone.
Smoking or vaping nicotine: Reduces blood flow and accelerates glycation.
Sleep debt and stress: Cortisol spikes and poor recovery flatten the complexion.
Nutrition gaps: Low iron, B12, folate or vitamin D can sap colour and energy.
Hormonal shifts: Perimenopause and menopause can worsen dryness and turnover.
Medical causes: Iron-deficiency anaemia, thyroid issues or liver disease can all present as persistent sallowness. If dullness arrives suddenly or comes with fatigue, breathlessness, palpitations, hair loss or weight change, see your GP.

Daily habits that make a visible difference

• Sleep 7–8 hours most nights. Skin repairs barrier function and DNA damage overnight.

• Build a colourful plate. Prioritise iron and B-vitamins, lean protein, healthy fats and polyphenol-rich fruit and veg.

• Hydrate smartly. Regular water plus water-rich foods supports turgor and glow.

• Quit smoking. Circulation and collagen both improve when you stop.

• Sun protection every day. Broad-spectrum SPF 30–50, reapplied, prevents the UV cycle that flattens tone.

Skincare that targets sallowness

Keep it simple and consistent. Think cleanse, treat, protect.

Morning

1. Gentle cleanse. A gel or lotion that removes film without stripping.

2. Antioxidant serum. Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid 10–20%), or alternatives like THD ascorbate, ferulic acid, vitamin E, niacinamide or CoQ10 to neutralise free radicals and brighten.

3. Moisturiser. Ceramides, squalane or glycerin to strengthen the barrier.

4. SPF 30–50. Broad-spectrum, every day, whatever the weather.

Evening

1. Cleanse. Take off SPF and pollution.

2. Exfoliate 2–4 nights a week. AHAs, such as lactic or glycolic,c lift dull surface cells. If you are spot-prone, use salicylic acid. Sensitive skin can opt for PHAs.

3. Take retinoid most other nights. Start low and slow with retinol or retinal. These increase cell turnover and support collagen. Buffer with moisturiser if needed.

4. Moisturiser. Look for hyaluronic acid, ceramides and peptides to plump and repair.

Extra helps

• Azelaic acid brightens and calms redness.

• Tranexamic acid helps reduce uneven tone.

• Face massage for a minute after moisturiser can boost microcirculation.

Clinic options that work

• Light to medium chemical peels (glycolic, lactic, Jessner) to reset glow.

• Microneedling with or without PRP to stimulate collagen.

• Non-ablative fractional lasers such as Fraxel or Clear + Brilliant to refine texture and tone.

• LED phototherapy for inflammation and repair support.
  Always book with a qualified practitioner who can assess your skin type and create a staged plan. Strict sunscreen use afterwards is non-negotiable.

When to see a doctor

• Dull, yellow or grey skin that persists despite good care.

• Sudden sallowness with fatigue, dizziness, breathlessness, palpitations or unusual bleeding or bruising.

• New itch, jaundice of the eyes, or rapid weight change.
  A GP or dermatologist can check iron studies, B12, thyroid function and other markers, and guide medical or skincare treatment.

Quick checklist

• Cleanse gently, daily.

• Protect with SPF every morning.

• Exfoliate thoughtfully, not daily.

• Use a retinoid consistently.

• Support with sleep, balanced nutrition and stress management.

• Stop smoking.

• Seek medical advice if symptoms suggest more than a cosmetic issue.

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